HEMA FAQS

We’re UK-based but also work with specialist facilities overseas. What sets us apart is:

  • Rigorous product testing
  • Independent lab verification
  • Transparent batch tracking
  • We tell you where it’s made, how it’s tested, and what’s inside - because trust matters. Find out more here.

Every product is backed by Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS), Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSR), and meets UK/EU cosmetic regulations. We only use approved ingredients - and publish full disclosures which can be found here.

Yes, all of our products.

HEMA is an acronym for HydroxyethylMethacrylate. It is a small monomer that is a key ingredient in many gel nail polishes, gel extensions, and other nail enhancement products.

In its liquid state, HEMA is a small, reactive molecule. When it's exposed to UV or LED light, it undergoes a chemical reaction called polymerisation. The small HEMA molecules link together to form long chains, creating a strong, hard, and durable plastic-like material. This hardened polymer is what gives gel nails their lasting wear, glossy finish, and chip resistance - which is why it is so popular.

HEMA has gained a negative reputation because it is a common cause of allergic reactions to gel nail products. When applied and cured by a trained professional with an adequate setup, HEMA is safe to use.

Symptoms of a HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) allergy are a form of allergic contact dermatitis, and they can vary in severity. The reaction is typically triggered when an uncured gel product comes into contact with the skin.

Here are the common symptoms of a HEMA allergy:

Symptoms at the Point of Contact

  • Redness and swelling: The skin around the nails, cuticles, and fingertips becomes red, inflamed, and swollen.
  • Intense itching and burning: This is a very common and often one of the first signs of a reaction. The itching can be severe and persistent.
  • Blisters and sores: In more severe cases, small, fluid-filled blisters may develop on the skin around the nails. These can be painful and may rupture, leading to sores and peeling.
  • Dry, cracked skin: The skin around the affected area may become extremely dry, flaky, and cracked.

Symptoms Beyond the Hands

Due to the nature of a contact allergy, the reaction can spread to other parts of the body that have been touched by the hands, especially the sticky, uncured gel.

  • Facial and eyelid swelling: It's common for people to unknowingly touch their face or eyes, leading to a reaction on the eyelids or around the mouth and chin. The skin on the face is very thin and sensitive, making it particularly vulnerable.
  • Rash on other body parts: A rash may appear on the neck, chest, or abdomen.

Nail-Specific Symptoms

  • Onycholysis: The nail plate may begin to lift and separate from the nail bed. This can be painful and can lead to secondary infections.
  • Nail dystrophy: The nail can become thin, brittle, and distorted.

It's important to note that an allergy to HEMA, or any other acrylate, is a type of delayed-onset reaction. Symptoms may not appear immediately after the manicure. They can show up hours or even days later.

If you suspect that you or a client has a HEMA allergy, you should remove the product immediately and consult a dermatologist. Once an allergy to acrylates develops, it is typically lifelong, and further exposure can lead to more severe reactions.

While it is possible to apply gel nails at home, a professional nail technician is trained in precise application, proper curing, and hygiene. They also have access to professional-grade products and equipment designed to minimise risk. This expertise can greatly reduce the chances of developing an allergy.

HEMA-free gel polish uses alternative monomers. These are often less likely to trigger reactions, but "HEMA-free" doesn't automatically mean "risk-free."

Safety depends on:

  • Application technique (no skin contact)
  • Proper curing with compatible, professional-grade lamps
  • Quality of formulation and ingredients

For clients with sensitivities or those new to gels, HEMA-free is a strong option. But many professional techs still prefer HEMA-based systems for reliability and performance, as long as they’re used correctly.

Since September 2021, products containing HEMA have been prohibited from being sold to the general public in the UK. HEMA is restricted for use by trained professionals in salon settings. The regulation is based on the understanding that professionals are better equipped to apply the product correctly, avoiding skin contact and ensuring a complete cure, thereby minimising the risk of allergic reactions to HEMA.