Nail Polish: Top Tips for Best Results
Nail polish may be the least used service in our nail systems, but when applied under the right conditions and with the correct technique, it can produce fantastic results.
Dry
Many people have moved away from traditional nail polish due to long drying times and the risk of smudging, but with the right knowledge, it still has its place. Here are my top tips to help you understand nail polish and get the very best results from it.
Understand How It Works
Firstly, understanding how nail polish works will help you achieve the very best results.
Nail polish is an air-drying coating that dries through a process called solvent evaporation, so no lamp is required.
How Does Nail Polish Actually Dry?
Nail polish is a solvent-based product. When it is exposed to air, the solvents within it begin to evaporate. As the solvents leave the coating, the polymer chains move closer together and entangle, forming a continuous film across the nail plate. This explains why, when applied, nail polish can appear quite thick but loses volume as the solvents evaporate from the coating.
Although the surface may feel touch dry quite quickly, the lower layers can still contain trapped solvents. This is why freshly applied nail polish can still dent, wrinkle or smudge, even when it appears or feels touch dry. Applying thick layers can trap solvent within the polish. This is known as solvent entrapment and is one of the main reasons nail polish dents, wrinkles and smudges.
Think of each layer as needing to dry from the bottom up. If you trap wet polish underneath another coat, it cannot dry properly.
Correct Application
Nail polish does not require aggressive or etching nail preparation as gel polish does; however, it still requires the nail to be prepared correctly. Unlike gel products, which cure through polymerisation, nail polish relies entirely on a mechanical bond to the natural nail. Ensuring the nail plate is clean, dry and free from oils and surface contaminants is essential for achieving the best possible adhesion and wear.
Apply each layer thinly and, more importantly, allow it to dry before applying the next. This allows most of the solvent to evaporate before the next layer is applied. Piling the product on thickly without giving it time to dry will result in denting, smudging and premature chipping. Be patient, I promise it's worth it.
Ensure the product is applied evenly. Bumpy, uneven polish application means the thicker areas take much longer for the solvents to evaporate, leading to uneven drying times. Sometimes thick areas of product will remain soft for days, by which time it has smudged or chipped and the frustrations kick in!
Temperature
Cold temperatures slow down solvent evaporation, while warmer conditions help the solvents evaporate more quickly. This is one reason nail polish may seem to take much longer to dry during colder weather.
Layer Thickness
Applying thick layers traps solvent within the polish — known as solvent entrapment. This is one of the main reasons nail polish dents, wrinkles and smudges even when it feels touch dry.
Bottle Age
Older bottles of nail polish become thicker over time because small amounts of solvent gradually evaporate each time the bottle is opened. As the solvent level reduces, the polish becomes thicker and more difficult to apply in thin, even coats.
How to Apply Nail Polish
When capping the free edge and applying each layer, keep the product thin. Excess product will not dry correctly and is much more likely to peel, dent or become damaged.
Top Tips for Clients for Longer-Lasting Nail Polish
Wear gloves when cleaning.
Reapply top coat every few days to prolong wear. Eventually, the polish will need removing and reapplying.
Apply cuticle oil daily.
Avoid picking or peeling the nail polish.
Remove using a suitable nail polish remover.
Patience.
Perfect Polish.
The right technique, thin layers and a little patience — that's all it takes to get the very best from nail polish.
