THE EDGE NAILS
HOW TO USE OUR BUILDER GELS
Our expert-led videos and guides break down builder gel techniques into simple, repeatable steps that help nail techs sculpt, strengthen, and perfect nails with precision, efficiency, and flawless results every time with The Edge Nails.
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View allFAQs
This is often due to incorrect application or incomplete curing. If the product is applied too thickly, the lamp won’t be able to cure the builder gel evenly throughout.
Even though the surface may appear smooth and feel hard, gel can seem cured while only being around 50% cured internally. This incomplete cure weakens the structure and can cause the product to sink, collapse, or distort over time, leading to a bumpy or uneven appearance at the client’s next appointment.
To prevent this, always apply the product in controlled, even layers and ensure the correct curing times and lamp type are used for your specific system.
This is usually down to product placement or the amount of product used. Any excess gel that pools at the sides of the free edge will cause the nail to appear wider or “fanned out.”
It can also happen if the natural sidewalls grow downward, giving the illusion of a flared shape. To correct this, make sure your sides remain parallel with the natural nail sidewalls and that the product is applied evenly down the centre and distributed into the sidewall areas, avoiding build-up. Keeping your structure balanced and controlled will give a clean, narrow finish.
Builder gels have tightly cross-linked molecular chains, which means acetone can’t easily penetrate the product. If too much gel is left on the nail before soaking, it will struggle to break down.
To make removal easier, file the product down as thinly as possible before soaking. This allows the acetone to reach the
remaining gel and soften it effectively. Always take your time and avoid
forcing or scraping the product, as this can damage the natural nail.
No, this technique helps prevent lifting. Once the nail is finished and top-coated, use a slim 180-grit file held at a slight angle under the free edge to create a gentle bevel. Take care not to over file the shape at this stage; many nail technicians prefer to leave their final shaping until the very end of the service.
This doesn’t remove product; it bevels the product and natural nail together, allowing them to sit slightly offset and preventing separation over time. It also gives a crisp, professional finish to the free edge.
Because builder gel doesn’t need to be capped, this technique enhances the durability of the service and helps maintain a neat, long-lasting result.
Bubbles form when air becomes trapped in the gel during application or mixing. This can happen for a few different reasons:
Overworking the gel:
Stirring or brushing the product too much introduces air. Always float the gel gently onto the nail rather than brushing it on.
Incorrect brush technique:
Pressing too firmly with your brush can push air into the gel. Use light, even pressure and keep your brush flat against the surface.
Mixing or shaking the pot:
Never stir, whip, or shake your gel pot before use; it will fill the product
with tiny air pockets that appear during curing.
Cold product:
Working in a cold room can make the gel thicker and harder to apply smoothly, which increases the risk of bubbles. Keep your products at room temperature for best results.